SMART Repairs to a car's bodywork can very often be used to repair small scrapes and scuffs to certain areas of a car's bodywork, usually bumpers and other 'low down' areas on the car bodywork. In such cases they can be quick, either invisible (or close enough to be quite acceptable) and generally save a lot of cash over what a typical full bodyshop will charge.
Unfortunately however whilst most SMART Repair operators (they are usually mobile, working out of a suitable equipped van) are well aware of the limitations of their system, many either don't really understand just what makes a good repair last, don't care, or allow themselves to be talked into carrying out repairs in unsuitable locations.
When this happens one of two things will invariably happen:
1. Either the repaired area will stand out like a sore thumb from day 1
or
2. The repair may look acceptable for a while, or in certain lights, but after a while the repair will stand out like a sore thumb.
The fact is, it is very rare that and 'local' repair on a large panel, such as a roof, bonnet (hood), bootlid (trunk) or often on other larger panels around the car like wings, doors etc can work unless undertaken properly.
Why's that?
It's critical that when new paint is sprayed over a repaired area, that it is 'blended' or 'faded out' across adjoining areas. As it sounds, this means that although the actual repaired area may get 100% paint coverage with the new paint, the next few inches will receive 80% coverage, the next few a few inches more etc right down to 0% a foot or two (depending on the area) from the repaired area. Then typically the top coat of clear lacquer will cover the whole panel.
If lacquer is faded out so that it stops part way over a flat or fairly flat panel it may be possible to then polish the area so it looks great. All too often however the area where the lacquer stops becomes visible as a 'halo', standing out like, yup, you've guessed it, a sore thumb.
So, 'let's say you have a small area of damaged paint in the middle of your Jaguar bonnet (like a customer we had in today). The damage may be only 50mm (2 inches) across. By the time the damage has been repaired (flatted and/or filled and sanded flat) the affected area will be a minimum of say 150mm across. Put primer on that and the area grows to say 250mm across. Colour coat, by the time it is blended out, increases this to say 600-800mm across (say 2ft - 2ft 6inches). But the bonnet may be 1.5m (4-5ft) across so why prepare and lacquer the whole bonnet?
That sore thumb comes up again.
If you're in doubt try and find a repairer that offers SMART and 'traditional' repairs. They will offer you the appropriate most cost effective solution to your problem.
It's a bit of a minefield because 'Traditional Only' typical bodyshops will always use the big stick. They generally don't like small repairs, they are best equipped to tackle those larger accident damage type of work where an insurance company is footing the bill.
Mobile SMART Repairers will do what they can but if you're unlucky enough to find one that is going to 'push the system' just a little too far you will end up regretting it...
