The 1967 Chevy Chevelle has a non C-clip rear axle. On the early models such as this, it is not necessary to open the rear differential to remove the axles. The axle and bearing are held secure by a retaining plate and the four bolts in the brake backing plate. The bearings are pressed on and require a press to remove and install them on the axle. The non-C-clip axle is the only design endorsed by the NHRA for higher horsepower vehicles. C-clip axles have a certain amount of end-play and can break under heavy load. No end play exists in non-C-clip axles.
Instructions
Removal
- 1
Loosen the lug nuts on the rear wheels by one-half turn using the lug wrench. Raise the rear of the car with a jack and place a jack stand under the axle tube on each side of the differential. Lower the car so it rests on the stands. Continue removing the lug nuts and the wheel.
2Tap the center of the brake drum between the wheel studs to break it loose from the axle hub and pull off the drum. Place the drain pan under the wheel cylinder. Remove the brake line from the inside of the wheel cylinder.
3Remove the four nuts sandwiching the axle bearing and backing plate to the axle flange using a socket and ratchet. Pull the axle retaining plate away from the brake backing plate and reinstall the four nuts, leaving them finger tight to hold the backing plate in position as the axle bearing is removed.
4Install the slide hammer and hub puller attachment onto the wheel studs and install the lug nuts. Hammer the axle bearing out of the axle tube with the slide hammer. Lay the axle down and use a chisel and hammer to place a crease in the bearing retainer evenly in four spots around the axle.
5Place a blocking plate under the bearing and press the axle out of the bearing, using a standing press. Press the new bearing on the axle followed by the bearing retainer ring, using a standing press.
Installation
- 6
Remove the four nuts on the backing plate. Insert the axle into the axle tube until the bearing is flush with the end of the axle tube. Move the retainer plate down over the studs and install the four nuts and torque them to 64 to 76 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and socket.
7Install the brake line in the rear of the wheel cylinder. Open the wheel cylinder bleeder screw using a wrench and let the fluid gravity feed while the drum is installed. Close the brake cylinder bleeder screw.
8Bleed the wheel cylinder by opening the bleeder screw and having a helper push the brake pedal to the floor and hold it there until told to let it rise. Close the bleeder screw and instruct the helper to leave the pedal up and pump it three times. On the third pump, press down on the pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the air to escape. Close the bleeder screw and instruct the helper to repeat the process of pumping the brake pedal and holding it. Open the bleeder screw one more time and close it when no more fluid is draining and the pedal is to the floor. Close the bleeder screw and ask the helper to pump the brake and tell you of the pedal feel and height. Repeat the process if necessary.
9Remove the cap on the brake master cylinder and fill the reservoir as necessary with DOT 3 brake fluid. Replace the cover on the master cylinder. Install the wheel/tire assembly and torque the lug nuts in a crisscross pattern to between 70 and 80 foot-pounds.
