If you're repairing auto body stainless steel trim, you'll need tools that have certain lengths, special angles and multiple configurations. Front, back and side windshields, side body panels, wheel wells, and some interior trim and molding pieces require specialized extraction methods. Complete trim kits come with most of the tools needed for every application and come packed in portable plastic containers. However, buying the individual tools for specific jobs can save you money.
Decorative Body Trim Tools
Decorative stainless steel trim can be found on doors, windshields, fenders, quarter panels, trunk decks, wheel wells and sometimes on interior upholstery and dashboards. They appear as shiny strips that have no visible fasteners. A long, flat metal tool called a "trim remover" has a small notch cut into the end of it designed to slide behind the trim strip, encircle the trim fastener and pry it out. Some trim extractors have double-notched ends for different-sized fasteners. Other trim removers have double-purpose features with a larger notch on one end, making them useful for removing most interior door handles and window cranks.
Flathead screwdrivers with wide, thin blades perform the same prying function, but they often cause bending of the trim piece, and scratches and gouges in the paint. Use them only if nothing else is available.
Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove stainless steel molding around wheel wells, headlights and taillights.
Window Trim Tools
Window removal blades have long or short handles, either straight or angled. Designed to slide under the trim piece, they perform the task of slicing through the adhesive that holds the trim piece to the window frame. Some have knife-like ends, either sharpened on one side or both. The short, stout variety offers more leverage and power for extracting jammed or damaged windows. Tip: The blade will cut smoother and easier by using a small amount of oil on the removal blade.
A stiff piece of wire held under the trim piece with both hands can sometimes pull off the entire length of the strip with one motion. This works best with newer cars.
Note: Use window removal blades to pry loose decorative trim strips on newer vehicles that use adhesive instead of fasteners.
Use a ballpeen hammer to tap the end of the removal tool if the slot between the trim and window proves too tight or frozen stuck.
Heat Guns
In cold or frigid temperatures, the adhesive rubber molding between the windshield and frame slot requires more than just brute strength to extract. The industrial heat gun performs this function with ease. This electric hand tool should not be confused with a household hairdryer. Heat guns produce more heat from a concentrated exhaust tip. They are equipped with adjustable heat ranges and safety screens. For example, the Master Echo Heat Gun has two settings---500 degrees and 100 degrees. The variable temperature settings allow for slow removal or faster extractions. The heat produced softens the rubber and breaks down the integrity of the adhesive.
Note: Use extreme caution when using industrial heat guns. Always turn them off before placing them on the ground or near any object, especially flamables.
