How to Troubleshoot 1993 Ford Explorer Brakes

Two main areas must be addressed to troubleshoot the brake system on a 1993 Ford Explorer or any automobiles equipped with hydraulic brakes. The most important area to troubleshoot is the hydraulic system; without a properly sealed hydraulic system, there will be no brakes. The other main area is the mechanical side, which includes brake shoes and disc brake pads and hardware, such as brake drums and brake rotors.

Instructions

Push the brake pedal. It should be solid and several inches from the floor on the first push. If not, pump the brake pedal several times; if the pedal pumps up away from the floor, this indicates air in the line and the system requires bleeding. If the brake pedal is close to the floor, proceed to the next step.

Remove the master cylinder top, and check the fluid level. The front chamber is the reservoir for the front brakes, and the rear chamber is for the rear brakes. The fluid should be within a 1/4-inch of the top of the master cylinder. If any of the two chambers in the master cylinder are empty, this indicates a leak in the hydraulic system. If a leak is indicated, proceed to the next step.

Refill any empty master cylinder chamber, and pump the brakes a few times. Look under the vehicle for dripping brake fluid. If a fluid leak is found, inspect further to pinpoint the leak and repair it. Brakes must be bleed after repairing leaks. If the fluid level went down in the recently filled chamber but no leak was spotted, proceed to the next step.

Remove the brake line from the master cylinder that corresponds with the leaking reservoir chamber, and install a brake pressure gauge in its place. Refill the chamber, place the brake gauge in view, and pump up the brakes; if the gauge goes up and then falls or leaks down, replace or rebuild the master cylinder.

Park the Explorer on a solid, level surface. Loosen the front lug nuts a half turn, but don't remove them.

Place blocks behind the rear wheels. Insert a jack under the front center frame, and jack up the Explorer. Insert two jack stands under the frame, one near each wheel.

Apply light, steady pressure to the brake pedal while someone spins the wheels one at a time. There should just be enough pressure so the wheel has a slight, steady drag on it. Spin the wheel at a steady pace; if the wheel does not rotate smoothly, it could indicate the rotor is warped. When a rotor is warped, the brake pedal will pulse slightly under your foot in sync with a clunking noise when stopping the vehicle. If the rotors are warped, replace them with new ones. If not, proceed to the next step.

Remove the lug nuts and the front wheels. Inspect the brake pads; be sure sufficient lining remains to avoid the steel pad plate damaging the rotor. If the pads are worn, replace them. With the wheels off, inspect the rotors for small heat cracks; if the rotors have cracks, replace them.

Replace the wheels, and tighten the lug nuts. Jack up the vehicle, and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

Loosen the lug nuts one-half turn on the rear wheels, but don't remove them. Block the front wheels. Insert a jack under the rear differential or center frame, and jack up the Explorer. Insert two jack stands under the frame, one near each wheel.

Apply light, steady pressure to the brake pedal while someone spins the rear wheels one at a time. Listen for metal-on-metal contact while rotating the wheels. If you hear metal-on-metal contact, remove the wheels and brake drums, and inspect the drums and shoes. If no noise is heard, return the vehicle to the ground, and re-tighten the lug nuts. Rear drum brakes normally are not problematic.