The Toyota Celica with a standard transmission uses a hydraulic method for engagement and disengagement of the clutch. This results in effortless operation of the clutch. The system consists of two main components, a clutch master cylinder with attached brake fluid reservoir that supplies system pressure and a slave cylinder to accomplish the work. The highest percentages of these types of failure involve the slave cylinder. A failure in either the master cylinder or slave cylinder results in the inability to disengage the clutch or shift gears.
Instructions
- 1
Place the drivers seat in the full rearward position. Use the needle-nose pliers to detach the clutch master cylinder pushrod from the clutch pedal arm. Look under the dash with the flashlight at the top of the clutch pedal arm. Note the rod running from the back of the clutch master cylinder to the top of the clutch pedal arm. The rod is threaded and has a three-sided flat steel fork on its end secured by two nuts: one in front and one behind the fork. The purpose of this is to allow in and out adjustment possibilities for the clutch master cylinder. There are also two holes in the side of the fork used to attach it to the clutch pedal via a thick straight pin running through the fork and a hole in the clutch pedal arm. The pin has a shoulder on one side and a small hole on the opposite side for a wire clip or cotter pin to hold it in position. With the needle-nose pliers, pull the wire clip out of the pin freeing it. Pull the pin out of the fork and clutch pedal arm.
2Use a wrench to remove the two nuts on the master cylinder studs protruding through the firewall under the dash. Remove the slave cylinder supply line from the master cylinder using a wrench to remove the fitting.
3Pull the clutch master cylinder and studs away from the firewall. Remove the nuts on the threaded shaft and keep the fork for the new clutch master cylinder.
4Thread one of the threaded rod nuts on the new clutch master cylinder rod and run the nut about half way down. Install the fork on the rod and the remaining nut on the end of the rod.
5Push the new clutch master cylinder rod through the hole in the firewall followed by the two studs through their respective holes. Install the two nuts on the studs from under the dash. Do not tighten them yet.
6Hold the rod up to the clutch pedal arm and adjust the nuts to bring the fork up to the clutch pedal arm. Install the straight pin through the fork and the hole in the pedal arm. Install the wire clip in the straight pin to secure it. Run the nut between the firewall and the fork up to the bottom of the fork. Turn the top nut clockwise to squeeze the fork against the bottom nut. This locks the fork in place.
7Remove the cap from the clutch reservoir and fill it with brake fluid. Hold a finder tightly over the clutch master supply port where the supply line will be installed. Wrap a rag around your finger to catch expelled brake fluid. Have a helper slowly work the clutch pedal up and down. Keep a slight pressure over the hole so no air can re-enter the master cylinder when the pedal is raised. Every time the pedal is depressed brake fluid and air will be expelled through the supply line hole. There is no danger or discomfort holding the hole closed. As the helper pumps the clutch pedal watch for the air to subside and pure brake fluid to be expelled. When this happens, stop pumping the clutch pedal.
8Install the slave cylinder supply line and tighten until it is good and snug. Do not get overzealous and overtighten it. This will distort the fitting and it will surely leak. Fill the clutch reservoir and replace the cap.
