The inner tie rod in a 1997 Ford Taurus is the link from the rack-and-pinion steering to the steering knuckle. When the tie rod exhibits signs of wear, the result is freeplay in the steering -- this is free movement with no corresponding movement in the wheels. This freeplay allows the wheels to wander several degrees laterally, resulting in difficulty holding a straight track. Replacement is rather difficult and requires a special tool to remove the inner tie rod end; the tie rod is designed in such a way that it is extremely difficult to access with anything other than the special tie rod-removal tool. The tool generally costs more than the part itself.
Instructions
- 1
Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels one turn, using the lug wrench. Raise the front of the car with the floor jack and place jack stands under the sub-frame, just behind the front tires. Lower the car so that it rests on the stands. Continue to remove the previously loosened lug nuts, and remove the wheels.
2Remove the cotter pins in the outer tie rod ends, using the wire cutters. Remove the castle nuts with a wrench; also with a wrench, loosen the lock nut against the outer tie rod end. Install the tie rod separator tool between the tie rod end and the knuckle. Hit the tool with the hammer to "pop" the tie rod end out of the knuckle.
3Unscrew the outer tie rod end by turning it counterclockwise; make sure to count the turns required to remove it from the inner tie rod. Make a note of this number because it is vitally important. The outer tie rod must be installed on the new inner tie rod end the exact same number of turns to keep the alignment specifications in line. Spin the lock nut off the shaft.
4Clip the clamp on the inner tie rod boot and remove the clamp -- this is the large inner clamp. Don't cut the small outer clamp. Pull the dust boot off the inner tie rod shaft. Lift the locking pin located in the inner tie rod end connector, using the chisel and hammer. Don't chisel the head of the pin off -- just tap it enough to cause it to rise enough to be grabbed with a wire cutters; pull the pin out.
5Install the adjustable wrench on the rack-and-pinion threads on the engine side of the tie rod end. While holding the rack-and-pinion from turning, install the special tool and use the ratchet to turn the tool, which in turn will turn the inner tie rod end counterclockwise to remove.
6Install the new inner tie rod end while holding the rack with the adjustable wrench. With the special tool, tighten the inner tie rod end to 80 foot-pounds of torque. Install the new lock pin in the hole in the inner tie rod connector and tap it in with the hammer.
7Install the dust boot and the wire clamp to hold it in place over the rack and pinion end. Tighten it with the screwdriver. Thread the lock nut on the shaft about half-way up the threads. Install the outer tie rod end, giving it the same number of turns as when removed. Turn the lock nut counterclockwise to butt up against the outer tie rod; lock it down against the tie rod, using a wrench.
8Install the outer tie rod end in the knuckle, and install the castle nut. Tighten the castle nut and install a new cotter pin. Install the wheel and lug nuts. Thread the lug nuts down by hand. Raise the car, remove the jack stands and lower the car. Torque the lug nuts to 110 foot-pounds of torque.
