How to Install Struts on a 1997 Chrysler LHS

Installing the front struts on a 1997 Chrysler LHS is a moderately challenging operation. The spring needs to be compressed to remove it from the strut. The spring is under extreme pressure and must be handled properly. Struts have no particular life span. Struts, like shocks, just dampen up and down movement of the springs. The simplest way to determine whether or not struts are needed is to bounce the front or rear of the vehicle up and down and stand back. The vehicle should bounce once and stop. If the vehicle continues to bounce, the struts need to be replaced.

Instructions

    1

    Removal
    Loosen the lug nuts on the front wheels one-half turn using the lug wrench. Lift the front of the car and place jack stands under the sub frame so the suspension hangs. Lower the car to rest on the stands. Continue removing the lug nuts and wheels.

    2

    Remove the two slider-bolts securing the brake caliper using a socket and ratchet. Suspend the caliper from the frame with a suitable piece of wire. Remove the sway bar link from the strut using a socket and ratchet.

    3

    Pull the cotter pin out of the outer tie rod stud using the wire cutters. Remove the nut from the tie rod stud using a wrench. Insert the tie rod separator tool between the tie rod and the strut arm and hit it with a hammer to break it loose.

    4

    Remove the anti-lock brake wire from the side of the strut using a socket and ratchet. Remove the nuts on the strut plate studs where they protrude through the fenderwell using a socket and ratchet. Remove the two large bolts and nuts at the base of the strut using a wrench, socket and ratchet. Do not rotate the bolts, just secure them while the nuts are being removed. Tap each bolt with a hammer to help the bolts begin to come out of the strut where they can be pulled out the rest of the way. Separate the strut from the steering knuckle and remove it from under the car.

    5

    Sit or kneel and place the strut so it is facing in the same direction as when it can off. The key to replacing struts is to install all the parts exactly as they were removed. Matchmark the top strut mount and the top coil of the spring. Mark the spring base on the strut and the lower coil of the spring.

    6

    Install the spring compressor so it grabs the top most spring coil and the lowest coil. Compress the spring evenly until the spring is loose and no longer is pushing on the top strut plate. Remove the top nut securing the strut plate using a socket and ratchet. Lay all parts out facing the same direction as removed.

    7

    Lift off the strut plate and rubber isolator under it. Lift the coil spring off carefully and lay it down with both ends facing away from you. Remove the rubber seat from the strut saddle. Remove the dust boot and rubber bumper under it.

    8

    Installation
    Remove the new strut from the box. It will be compressed and locked at this point. Place a rag on your hand and push down and twist the strut shaft to release and expand it. Place the new strut in front of you facing the same direction as it will be installed.

    9

    Install the rubber bumper and the dust boot. Install the rubber seat on the new strut making sure that the depression for the end of the spring coil fits into the depression in the strut spring saddle.

    10

    Lift the spring and properly orient it so the match mark faces you and install it on the strut. Make sure the end of the lower coil sits in the depression in the rubber seat. Install the isolator making sure the depression in the isolator matches the end of the top coil.

    11

    Install the top plate aligning the matchmarks. Install the top nut and tighten it down with a socket and ratchet until the strut rod end is flush with the top of the nut. Back off the spring compressor while guiding the spring into the proper position in the top plate so it seats properly. Remove the compressor.

    12

    Tighten the top nut until at least three or four threads are showing above the nut, using a socket and ratchet. Torque the nut to 70 foot-pounds. Insert the top plate studs up through their holes in the fenderwell. Install the three nuts securing it to the fenderwell. Do not tighten them yet.

    13

    Push the steering knuckle into the strut base and install the two large bolts and nuts. Torque these bolts to 125 foot-pounds. Torque the top three nuts on the top strut plate to 25 foot-pounds. Install the anti-lock brake cable to the strut. Install the tie rod end in the strut arm. Torque the nut to 27 foot-pounds. Install a cotter pin.

    14

    Install the sway bar link to the strut and torque the nut to 70 foot-pounds. Install the brake caliper and torque the two slider bolts to 14 foot-pounds. Install the wheels and tighten the lug nuts enough that they all seated. Lift the front of the car and remove the jack stands. Lower the car. Torque the lug nuts in a staggered pattern to 95 to 100 foot-pounds. Have the car's alignment checked to make sure there are no changes detrimental to tire wear.