How to Change Front Brake Rotors on 1988 Jeep Cherokees

Despite retaining the same basic shape throughout its 17-year lifespan, the Cherokee remained a popular model among compact SUV buyers. Prior to the introduction of the Cherokee as a standalone model, Jeep used the nomenclature, starting in 1974, to identify the two-door, feature-deficient version of the Wagoneer. The 1988 Cherokee -- just a year removed from receiving antilock brakes -- came fitted with front disc brakes and rear drums. The process in replacing the Cherokees rotors varies, depending on whether the vehicle is equipped with a two- or four-wheel-drive system.

Instructions

Loosen the front lug nuts with a ratchet and socket. Raise the front of the Cherokee with a floor jack and slide jack stands beneath the frame rails. Lower the Cherokee onto the jack stands, remove the front lug nuts and pull the front wheels of the SUV.

Set an 8-inch C-clamp over the brake caliper so that the fixed side contacts the rear of the caliper and the screw part contacts the outer brake pad. Tighten the C-clamp until it is just snug against the outer brake pad.

Position a drain pan under the caliper. Place a combination wrench on the bleeder valve on the rear of the brake caliper. Turn the bleeder valve about a half-turn counterclockwise, then immediately start tightening the C-clamp. Continue tightening the C-clamp until it stops moving, then immediately close the bleeder valve by turning clockwise until it is snug.

Loosen the C-clamp and remove it from the caliper.

Remove the two caliper bolts with a ratchet and an Allen-key socket. Pull the caliper off its bracket and hang it from the front coil spring with a bungee cord.

Press and hold the anti-rattle clip at the bottom of the outer brake pad downward, then pull the brake from the caliper bracket. Pull the inner brake pad from the caliper with the anti-rattle clip attached.

Proceed to Step 8 if your Cherokee has a two-wheel-drive system. If your Cherokee has a four-wheel-drive system, pull the rotor off the hub. If the rotor sticks, lightly tap the rear of it with a rubber mallet to free it. Set the rotor back onto the Cherokees hub. Proceed to Step 17.

Pry the grease cap off the center of the rotor with a flat-head screwdriver. Pull the cotter pin from the spindle shaft with needle-nose pliers and slide the castellated nut cap off the spindle nut. Remove the spindle nut with a ratchet and socket and pull off the washer.

Pull the rotor outward to disengage the outer wheel bearing, and pull the wheel bearing off the spindle shaft. Pull the rotor off the spindle and set it face down.

Remove the grease seal -- the O-shaped seal -- from the rear of the rotor, using a seal puller. Pull the inner bearing from the rear of the rotor.

Clean all of the old grease and debris from the inner and outer bearings, using parts cleaner and a clean, lint-free cloth. Insert your fingers into the center of each wheel bearing, so that your fingers act like the spindle shaft. Spin the bearings and feel for any roughness or resistance. Shake the bearings side-to-side and feel for any looseness. If you feel any roughness, resistance or looseness in either of the bearings, replace them as a set: one inner and one outer.

Fill a bearing packing tools reservoir with fresh wheel bearing grease, and set the inner bearing in the grease. Slide the bearing packing tools plunger into the reservoir. In one smooth stroke, press the plunger downward until it stops moving. Remove the plunger and pull the outer wheel bearing from the bearing packing tool. Repeat this step on the outer bearing.

Set the outer bearing in the rotor, with the tapered side facing up. Set a new grease seal over the bearing. Set a grease seal driver on top of the grease seal and lightly tap the driver with a hammer until the grease sea seats in the rotor.

Install the rotor on the spindle shaft, then slide the outer bearing onto the shaft, with the tapered side facing out. Slide the outer bearing into the center of the rotor.

Slide the washer onto the spindle until it contacts the outer bearing. Hand-tighten the spindle shaft nut onto the spindle shaft. Spin the rotor counterclockwise as you tighten the spindle nut to between 17 and 25 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and socket. Loosen the spindle nut about a half-turn with a ratchet and socket, then tighten it to between 1 and 2 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.

Guide the castellated nut cap onto the spindle shaft and over the spindle nut, lining up a valley in its castellated top, with the hole going through the spindle shaft. Insert a new cotter pin through the hole in the spindle shaft and bend its legs in opposite directions with needle-nosed pliers to lock it in place. Set the grease cap in place on the center of the rotor and lightly tap it with a rubber mallet to seat it.

Position the anti-rattle clip on the bottom of the caliper bracket, with the open end facing away from the rotor. Slide the new inner brake pad into the caliper bracket so that the small ear on the bottom of the pad inserts into the anti-rattle clips.

Insert the ear on the bottom part of the outer brake pad into the anti-rattle clip. Press the pad downward to compress the anti-rattle clip, then slide the upper part of the pad into the top of the caliper bracket.

Set the caliper on its bracket and hand-tighten the caliper bolts. Torque the caliper bolts to 35 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and an Allen-key socket.

Repeat Steps 2 through 19 to replace the rotor on the other side of the Cherokee.

Reinstall the front wheels onto the Cherokees front hubs, then hand-tighten the lug nuts. Raise the SUV off the jack stands with a floor jack and remove the jack stands. Lower the vehicle to the ground and tighten the lug nuts, in a crisscross pattern, to 110 foot-pounds, using a torque wrench and socket.

Press and release the brake pedal until it feels firm. Check the fluid level in the reservoir and add more DOT 3 brake fluid, as needed, to bring the level to the Max line.