How to Change the Front Brakes of a 2000 Chevy Silverado

The 2000 Chevy Silverado comes in half-ton and three-quarter ton models in both light-duty and heavy-duty series. It also features two-wheel and four-wheel drive models. From 1999 to 2005, the braking system on the Silverado remained virtually unchanged. The front disc brake system employs hydraulic pistons in the calipers which squeeze the pads against the surface of the rotors in order to slow and stop the truck on demand.

Instructions

Park the Silverado on a paved and level surface suitable for hoisting the truck and then apply the parking brake.

Open the hood and then remove the brake fluid master cylinder cap. Use the brake fluid suction baster to remove two-thirds of the brake fluid from the master cylinder reservoir and then discard the fluid.

Remove the front center caps and then crack the front wheel nuts loose with the Silverado's lug nut wrench. Only crack them loose from the wheel rim; don't remove them entirely.

Hoist the front end of the truck with a jack and then place a jack stand under the front frame rail. Do one side at a time so the front axle is elevated when done. Remove the wheel nuts and then remove the tires from the truck.

Use the C-clamp to compress the dual caliper pistons inward. Place the top of the clamp over the inboard caliper housing and the drive of the clamp on the bottom of the outboard brake pad backing plate. Slowly tighten the clamp until the caliper pistons are fully retracted into the piston bores.

Remove the caliper guide pins with a ratchet and 3/8-inch hex-head socket bit. Bend a wire coat hanger and hang the caliper to the chassis with it in order to prevent damage from occurring to the hydraulic brake hose attached to it.

Remove the pads from the caliper anchor. Use the pry tool if necessary to free the pads from the anchor. Remove the brake pad retaining clips (upper and lower) from the caliper anchor and then clean off the corrosion of the clips using a bench grinder with a wire brush wheel (provided the replacement pad set does not supply new ones).

Reinstall the old or new upper and lower brake pad retaining clips to the caliper anchor and then apply an even layer of brake lubricant to the pad seats of the clips. Install the new brake pads into the clips (one wear sensor is the inner pad--two wear sensors is the outboard pad).

Clean off any traces of old threadlock compound on the threads of the caliper guide pins using the bench grinder with a wire brush wheel. Apply an even coat of new red threadlock compound to the threaded parts of the caliper guide pins. Remove the caliper from the coat hanger and align the pins into the caliper after placing it over the pads and rotor. Tighten the bolts to 74-ft-lbs. using the torque wrench and suitable socket or 3/8-inch hex-head socket bit.

Replace the wheels and wheel nuts. Tighten the wheel nuts as much as they will allow with the wheels elevated snug to the hub.

Raise the truck up slightly with the jack enough to remove each jack stand. Slowly lower the vehicle to the ground. Re-tighten the wheel nuts with the torque wrench and a 7/8-inch socket in a star pattern (some models may feature six to eight wheel nuts) to 120 to 140 ft-lbs. (depending on the model and its particular torque specifications).

Make sure the master cylinder cap is in place and then pump the foot brake pedal several times until the pedal feels firm. Remove the master cylinder cap again and top off the reservoir with new brake fluid. Replace the center caps and then release the parking brake before test-driving the truck.

Perform the steps above up to Step 7.

Remove the upper and lower caliper anchor bolts after removing the pads and clips. Remove the anchor.

Remove the rotor from the hub (on the heavy-duty models, you may need to remove the external hub from the rotor using a ratchet and an appropriate socket to remove the hub bolts). Use a large ball-peen hammer to knock the rotor off, striking it from the inside out and turning it a quarter-turn between blows until the rotor breaks free from the hub (if necessary).

Use brake/parts cleaner spray to clean off the rust-preventative solution on the replacement rotors and then wipe it off with a shop rag.

Install the new rotors (and hubs where applicable). Use red threadlock compound on the threaded sections of the hub and/or caliper anchor bolts and tighten them to 84 ft-lbs. with the torque wrench and a suitably sized socket. Repeat the remaining steps as noted above to complete the full-service front brake job.