How to Change the Front Brakes on a 2002 Nissan Xterra

A new SUV, the Frontier-based Xterra, hit Nissan showrooms in the 2000 model year. The first generation Xterra only hung around for two model years, as the Frontier and the Xterra received mild styling updates for 2002. The 2002 Xterra came standard with a 2.4-liter four-cylinder engine that produced a respectable 143 horsepower. This SUV also had two 3.3-liter V-6s available -- one was a 170-horsepower version and the big boy was the 210-horsepower, supercharged model. Regardless of options, the 2002 Xterra had the same unusual brake setup, which requires you to remove the hub to get access to the rotor.

Instructions

Loosen the front lug nuts with a ratchet and socket and raise the front of the Xterra with a floor jack. Slide jack stands under the Xterras frame rails and lower the SUV onto the jack stands. Remove the front lug nuts and remove the front wheels.

Remove the two caliper bolts with a ratchet and socket as you hold the caliper pins from turning with a combination wrench. Lift the caliper from its bracket and hang it from a nearby suspension component using a bungee strap.

Slide the inner and outer brake pads from the caliper bracket. Pull the pad slippers the thin metal shims that go inside the bracket, above and below the brake pads from the caliper bracket. Remove the two bolts securing the caliper bracket and pull the caliper bracket off the front spindle assembly.

Pry the dust cover from the center of the hub with a flathead screwdriver. Pull the cotter pin from the spindle shaft with needle-nose pliers and pull the castellated nut retainer from the spindle shaft. Remove the spindle nut with a ratchet and socket.

Pull the hub-and-rotor assembly from the spindle shaft. Use caution to not disturb the inner or outer wheel bearing.

Position the hub-and-rotor assembly, wheel studs facing up, in a vice with rubber jaw protectors and tighten to secure the hub and rotor. Remove the six bolts securing the rotor to the hub using a ratchet and socket. Remove the hub and rotor from the vice and slide the rotor off the hub.

Slide a new rotor onto the hub in the same way the old rotor was installed. Align the bolt holes on the rotor with those in the hub. Hand-thread the hub-to-rotor bolts, then secure the hub and rotor in the rubber-jawed vice again. Tighten the six hub-to-rotor bolts to between 36 and 51 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.

Remove the hub-and-rotor assembly from the vice and slide it back onto the spindle shaft, use extreme caution not to disrupt the inner or outer wheel bearings inside the hub. Slide the washer onto the spindle shaft and hand-tighten the spindle nut.

Tighten the spindle nut to between 25 and 29 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket. Spin the hub three or four rotations in each direction to reseat the bearings. Tighten the spindle nut to between 25 to 29 foot-pounds again. Loosen the spindle nut about 45 degrees, set the castellated nut retainer over the nut, aligning a valley in the retainers castellated top with the hole through the spindle. Slide a new cotter pin through the hole in the spindle and bend its legs in opposite directions with needle-nose pliers to lock it into place.

Set the caliper bracket back on the spindle assembly and hand-thread the brackets bolts. Tighten the caliper bracket bolts to between 101 and 131 foot-pounds. Press new pad slippers, which come with the new pads, into their cutouts in the caliper bracket. Slide new brake pads into the caliper bracket.

Place the old inner brake pad inside the caliper so it contacts the caliper pistons. Position an 8-inch C-clamp over the caliper and tighten it until the clamp bolt touches the inner brake pad and the clamp face touches the rear of the caliper.

Position a drain pan under the caliper. Open the bleeder valve on the rear of the caliper by turning the valve counterclockwise a half-turn with a combination wrench. Immediately start tightening the C-clamp until the pistons fully retract into the calipers bore. Immediately tighten the bleeder valve. Wipe away the brake fluid that was released from the bleeder valve with a shop rag.

Remove the C-clamp and pull the old brake pad from the caliper. Set the caliper on its bracket and hand-thread the two caliper bolts. Hold each caliper pin steady with a combination wrench as you torque each caliper bolt to between 16 and 23 foot-pounds.

Repeat Steps 2 through 13 to replace the brakes on the other side of the Xterra.

Reinstall the front wheel on the front hubs and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Raise the Xterra off the jack stands with a floor jack and remove the stands. Lower the SUV to the ground and tighten the lug nuts, in a crisscross pattern, to between 87 and 108 foot-pounds.

Press and release the brake pedal until it feels firm. Check the level of the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir; add DOT 3 brake fluid until it reaches the Max line, if needed.

Take any old fluid in the drain pan to a local used automotive fluid recycling center. Some auto parts stores take old brake fluid for free.