Replacing the brake pads on a Honda Element is a way to learn how the braking system works on the SUV. You'll also save money on labor charges. Use that extra money to buy higher-quality replacement pads. While the Element features front disc brakes that employ pads, yours may also feature either rear drum brakes or rear disc brakes. There is little difference whether you're replacing front or rear pads.
Supporting the Element Safely
Before lifting the Element, remove half of the brake fluid from the master cylinder. This will allow room for the brake fluid to be purged back into the cylinder when the caliper pistons are compressed. Use a turkey baster for this task. Use the Elements tire iron to loosen the lug nuts 1/8 of a turn before lifting the axle. If you're replacing the front pads, apply the parking brake prior to lifting, but if you're replacing the rear pads, place a wheel chock in front of one of the front tires and don't apply the parking brake.
Lift one side at a time on a hard, flat surface and then place the jack stand in a suitable location. Place a piece of flat wood under the jack stand if youre replacing the pads on asphalt during a particularly hot day. This way, the stand legs wont cut into the tar. Lift both sides of the same axle. Never use the jack to support the vehicle.
Removing the Calipers and Pads
Finish removing the lug nuts and then remove the wheels.
Locate the caliper pin retaining bolts on the inside edge of the caliper. Use a 12-mm box-end hand wrench to turn the bolts counterclockwise to remove them from the caliper slide pins. With the bolts off the caliper, pull it off the pad and rotor assembly. There are two wire pad rattle clips (front only) that will pop off once you pull off the caliper. Save these if the replacement pad set did not come with new clips. Hang the caliper from the suspension spring so you dont damage the brake hose.
Remove the pads from the caliper anchor.
Replacing the Pads
Prep the new replacement pads by placing the shims provided in the box on them. Some pads may already have them staked on. If the pad set also has the pad retaining plates, pry the old ones off the caliper anchor and use the new ones. Apply a coat of lubricant to the tops of these plates (new or old). Apply some of the lubricant to the shims before replacing the pads in the anchor.
Finishing the Job
Pull the caliper pins out of the anchor, wipe off the old grease and re-lubricate with new lubricant.
Use a 4-inch C-clamp to compress the caliper piston slowly until it's fully seated in the bore. Place the bottom of the caliper onto the pads, but keep it pivoted away from the top of the pads. Insert the rattle clip (old or new) into the holes on the outer edges of the pads. Pivot the caliper up over the top of the pads and clip and then re-pivot it upward to replace the lower rattle clip. Replace both the caliper mounting bolts.
Do both sides. Obtain the proper torque specifications for re-tightening all the nuts and bolts. These are available from the parts store where you bought the pads.
Torque the lug nuts when the Element is lowered to the ground, but tighten them snugly before lowering it. Be sure the master cylinder cover is on and then pump the brake pedal several times until firm. This will push the compressed pistons of the calipers out and allow them to seat against the rotors. Top off the master cylinder with new brake fluid. Dont forget to remove the wheel chock and release the parking brake before test driving.
