How to Fix the Brakes on a 2007 F150 SuperCrew

The F-series line of pickups has been on the road since the 1948 model year, offering the F-1, F-2 and F-3. Ford changed the numbering system on all three trucks in 1953 to the more recognizable F-100, F-250 and F-350. The best-selling model in the lineup, the F-150, didnt arrive until 1975. The 2007 F-150 SuperCrews base format came with a 248-horsepower, 4.6-liter V-8 and rear-wheel drive. Fixing the brakes on the base level 2007 F-150 SuperCrew is a straightforward task; the hardest part is applying the monstrous amount of torque needed on the front spindle nut.

Instructions

Loosen the front lug nuts with a ratchet and socket. Raise the front of the F-150 with a floor jack and slide jack stands under its frame rails. Lower the truck onto the jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and remove the front wheels from the truck.

Remove the two caliper guide pins with a ratchet and socket, and pull the caliper from its bracket. Support the caliper from a nearby suspension component, using a bungee cord.

Pull the brake pads from the caliper bracket and pull the two pad slippers the metal shims above and below where the pads were seated from the caliper bracket. Remove the two bolts securing the caliper bracket with a ratchet and socket, and remove the caliper bracket from the spindle assembly.

Pull the cotter pin from the spindle shaft with needle-nose pliers, then remove the castellated nut retainer from the spindle shaft. Remove the spindle nut with a ratchet and socket; this nut is very tight, so you may need to substitute the ratchet with a breaker bar for added leverage. Discard the spindle nut, as it is a one-time-use component.

Pull the hub and rotor assembly off the front spindle.

Check the rotor for any defects, including deep grooves, evidence of grinding, a mirror-like shine or cracking. If any defects exist, replace the rotor with a new one. Alternatively, if you have access to a micrometer, you can measure the thickness of the rotor and compare it to the discard specification of 1.122 inches. If the rotor is above this thickness, you can have a machine shop or automotive repair facility attempt to cut any defects from the rotor.

Set the original, new or resurfaced hub and rotor assembly on the trucks spindle and hand-thread a new spindle nut onto the spindle shaft. Tighten the spindle nut to 295 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket. Slide the spindle nut retainer onto the spindle shaft and position it over the spindle nut, so one of the valleys in the retainers castellated top aligns with the hole through the spindle shaft. Slide a new cotter pin through the spindle shaft and bend its legs in opposite directions with needle-nose pliers to lock it into place.

Set the caliper bracket into place on the spindle assembly and hand-thread the caliper bracket bolts. Torque the caliper bracket bolts to 148 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket. Press new pad slippers, which come with the new brake pads, into place on the caliper bracket they are asymmetrical, so they only fit facing one direction. Slide new brake pads into the caliper bracket.

Position a drain pan under the brake caliper and insert the old inner brake pad into the caliper, so it contacts the pistons inside the caliper. Position an 8-inch C-clamp over the caliper, so its screw part contacts the inner brake pad and its fixed part contacts the rear of the caliper. Open the calipers bleeder valve by turning it a half-turn counterclockwise with a combination wrench. Immediately start tightening the C-clamp and continue tightening it until it stops moving. Immediately tighten the bleeder valve and remove the C-clamp.

Slide the caliper onto its bracket and hand-thread its pins into place. Tighten the caliper pins to 55 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.

Repeat steps 2 through 10 to replace the brake pads on the other side of the F-150.

Reinstall the wheels and hand-tighten the lug nuts. Raise the truck off the jack stands and remove the jack stands. Lower the truck to the ground and tighten the lug nuts, in a crisscross pattern, to 150 foot-pounds with a torque wrench and socket.

Check the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. If it is not at the Max line on the reservoir, unscrew the cap from the reservoir and add DOT 3 brake fluid until it reaches the Max line. Tighten the cap onto the master cylinder reservoir.

Loosen the rear lug nuts with a ratchet and socket. Wedge wheel chocks under the front of the front wheels. Raise the rear of the truck and position jack stands under each side of the rear axle, roughly 12 inches from the differential. Lower the truck onto the jack stands. Remove the lug nuts and pull the wheels off the rear hubs.

Follow steps 2 and 3 in the section titled Front Brakes to remove the caliper, front pads, pad slippers and caliper bracket.

Pull the rear rotor off the truck, if the rotor does not pull off easily, lightly tap around the rear of the rotor with a rubber mallet to free it. Once you remove the rotor, make certain not to disturb any of the parking brake shoe components.

Follow step 6 in the section titled Front Brakes to inspect the rotor. If you use a micrometer to measure the rotor, the discard specification for the rear rotor is 0.728 inches.

Press the new, original or resurfaced rotor onto the rear hub. You may need to wiggle the rotor slightly to get it to clear the parking brake shoes, especially if you are installing a new rotor.

Reinstall the rear brakes by following steps 8 through 10 in the section titled Front Brakes.

Repeat steps 2 through 6 to replace the brakes on the other side of the truck.

Reinstall the wheels, lower the truck and refill the brake fluid, if needed, by following steps 12 and 13 in the section titled Front Brakes.